Sushie

On a street corner in Nishi-Nippori, すし重 keeps the craft of traditional sushi-making alive, from storing its fish on ice in the old-fashioned way to grating fresh wasabi by hand. The chef and proprietress welcome guests into a quiet, relaxed dining room, where even solo diners can settle in comfortably over Edomae sushi.

One of the menu’s much-praised offerings is conger eel, simmered until plump and tender. For a meal built around drinks, an assortment of silver-skinned fish makes a satisfying choice. Other thoughtful small plates include shellfish adductor muscle grilled until fragrant and shrimp served with their heads crisped over the heat—good company for a glass. The selection also ranges across ark shell, Japanese cockle, flounder and tuna, including fatty tuna, with the sushi shaped by an experienced hand.

The restaurant opens from 5 pm; booking a seat to coincide with opening makes room for an unhurried evening of beer or sake in its old-town-style interior.